"Take a pound of pork, chop it finely, put it in a bowl, beat in two whole eggs and half a cup of sweet cream... Magdalena Dobromila describes the dish and I don't recognise it. The truth is that the way Spanish bird is prepared today is miles away from the way it was originally prepared. We take a whole pound of beef, pound it down and stuff it with sausage, pickles, bacon, an egg, just right, like we've been used to for the last half century. We fry and cook the bun on the root vegetables with the sausage and pickles, when it's ready we pull the gravy until it's as thick and firm as it should be. Sometimes you have to hurry in the kitchen. Not with a Spanish bird in any case."